Veneto

Cortina d’Ampezzo has a reputation that gets there before you do. Ski fashion, magazine spreads, the hard white of the Tofane in winter light. Fair enough. That stuff is real. I just don’t spend most of my time chasing it. What I keep coming back for sits a little lower: the old railway bed that … Read more

I went to Verona for the Arena and left talking about a former slaughterhouse. That is not a complaint. Juliet’s courtyard was ten minutes of phones and elbows; twenty minutes later I was under the roof of the Mercato Coperto di Campagna Amica on Via Macello, buying a wedge of Monte Veronese and eating something … Read more

I did not come to Asolo for another Veneto day trip from Venice. I came for the walk up Monte Ricco to the Rocca — the fortress above the arcades and the plain — and for the hour after, when you drop back into town with the hill still in your legs and order a … Read more