Off the Beaten Path Travel Destinations in Italy
Rapallo does not try to be Portofino. It is bigger, a little louder, and more useful. Trains stop here without much fuss. People buy shoes on Thursday. The gulf opens wide enough that you can stand on the lungomare and see three towns at once without feeling you paid for a postcard. What keeps me … Read more
Melfi does not open with a beach or a cave city. It opens with a dark castle on a hill and an extinct volcano off to the side. Monte Vulture softens the skyline into a long green shoulder. The town sits on its lower slope in northern Basilicata, roughly between Naples and Bari if you … Read more
Amantea splits itself on purpose. Down low: a long Tyrrhenian beach, a straight lungomare, umbrellas and scooters and gelato that collapses before you sit. Up the slope, Amantea Paese keeps the stone lanes, a castle stump, and a slower clock. Between those two speeds is what I actually pack for—dried figs the color of old … Read more
Most people step off the ferry into Amalfi looking up. The Duomo staircase does that to you. I look inland instead. Past the gelato lines and the souvenir limoncello, Via Pietro Capuano turns into Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi, then keeps climbing as Via delle Cartiere. The air cools. You start to hear water. I keep coming … Read more
Cipolla rossa mornings above Santa Maria dell’Isola in Tropea Tropea sits on a sandstone cliff above the Tyrrhenian, the whole centro storico balanced on a shelf of rock. Below, pale sand runs toward the outcrop that holds Santa Maria dell’Isola, the small sanctuary that looks from the belvedere like a church set on a loaf … Read more
Cosenza starts where two rivers run into each other. Stand near the old town, and you can watch the Busento slide into the Crati, a gray-green join that still shapes how the city feels. Above the water, the centro storico climbs Colle Pancrazio in stairs, laundry lines, and stone patched more times than anyone counts. … Read more