Farinata Steam in the Caruggi of Genoa

Vintage 'Greetings from Genoa, Italy' postcard with circular insets of La Lanterna, Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, Palazzo Ducale, and harbor scenes surrounding a central Genoa collage.

Most people treat Genoa as a transfer: cruise pier, aquarium selfie, train south to the pastel villages. That is a mistake. The real city starts when you leave the waterfront boardwalk and step into the centro storico, where the caruggi (those narrow stone alleys) run like canyons between tall houses, and the smell of chickpea … Read more

The Rocca climb on Monte Ricco in Asolo

Vintage postcard collage greeting from Asolo, Italy featuring Palazzo Pretorio, Duomo Santa Maria Assunta, Rocca Braida Monte Ricco, Piazza Maggiore, Mura Medievali, Coli Asolani vineyard, and Palazzo della Ragione.

I did not come to Asolo for another Veneto day trip from Venice. I came for the walk up Monte Ricco to the Rocca — the fortress above the arcades and the plain — and for the hour after, when you drop back into town with the hill still in your legs and order a … Read more

Fabric Rolls on Contrada del Carmine in Brescia

Vintage postcard promoting Padova, Italy, with circular vignettes of Piazza della Loggia, Castello di Brescia, Duomo Vecchio, Duomo Nuovo, Capitolium of Brescia and Santa Giulia.

Most people treat Brescia as a train change between Milan and Verona, or a base for Lake Garda day trips. That works if you came for the lake. I keep ending up here for the Carmine quarter, where fabric shops still stack bolts of cloth in ground-floor windows and the streets feel lived-in rather than … Read more