Campania

Most people step off the ferry into Amalfi looking up. The Duomo staircase does that to you. I look inland instead. Past the gelato lines and the souvenir limoncello, Via Pietro Capuano turns into Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi, then keeps climbing as Via delle Cartiere. The air cools. You start to hear water. I keep coming … Read more

Most people meet Capri at Marina Grande, then get funneled up to the Piazzetta like luggage on a belt. The square is pretty. It is also a holding pen. I do better when I leave the lower town’s shop circuit early and ride the bus up the switchbacks to Anacapri. Ordinary doors up there. And … Read more