Basilicata

Melfi does not open with a beach or a cave city. It opens with a dark castle on a hill and an extinct volcano off to the side. Monte Vulture softens the skyline into a long green shoulder. The town sits on its lower slope in northern Basilicata, roughly between Naples and Bari if you … Read more

Bernalda does not open with a grand square or a cliff-edge panorama. It opens with a long, tree-lined street. Corso Umberto I runs through the upper town like a spine: noble façades from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, small shops, bars where the same people show up at the same hour. Walk it slowly. … Read more