Hamburg

Hamburg’s postcard usually starts at the harbor cranes or the glass concert hall. I start one S-Bahn stop further west, where the river still feels like a working waterway and the houses climb the bank on stairs instead of boulevards. Blankenese was a pilot and fishing village before it became a green edge of the … Read more

Most visitors meet Speicherstadt between Miniatur Wunderland and the Elbphilharmonie — red brick, a canal selfie, then the next ticket queue. I like it better when the first doors open on Kehrwieder and the roast smell still beats the tour-group noise. Coffee floors above the fleets, slow bridges over water that once carried duty-free sacks, … Read more