Baden-Württemberg

Most people who detour into Schwäbisch Hall come for the staircase. St. Michael’s wide stone steps open onto a market square that looks, from the top landing, like someone arranged half-timber and Baroque façades for a postcard. The town’s origin story sits lower, almost at river level, on a small square called Haalplatz where salty … Read more

Ulm sells itself with a steeple. Fair enough. The Minster still owns the skyline. The town I come back for sits lower, where two thin arms of the Blau slide through half-timber and tip into the Danube. Locals say Fischerviertel and point south of the Rathaus; the careful name is Fischer- und Gerberviertel. I start … Read more