Mayonnaise on the Pizza Rossini, Pesaro

Vintage Pesaro postcard showing landmarks: Piazza del Popolo fountain and town square, a central banner says Greetings from Pesaro, Italy.

Pesaro sits on the northern Marche coast where the Foglia finds the Adriatic and the hills of San Bartolo rise north of the beach hotels. People still call it Rossini’s town, which is fair. He was born here. But the first local argument you meet is usually on a plate. Pizza Rossini: tomato, mozzarella, a … Read more

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, Modica and/or Ragusa

The chocolate here does not melt the way you expect. It stays gritty, almost sandy on the tongue, because the cocoa never gets cooked into a smooth European bar. At Antica Dolceria Bonajuto on Corso Umberto I, they still cold-work the paste the way the town learned it centuries ago. Sugar crystals stay whole. Each … Read more