Liguria

Monterosso al Mare is the Cinque Terre stop people remember for sand. Fair enough. It has the longest beach of the five, a station that dumps day-trippers onto Via Fegina, and more gelato than anyone needs. What I keep coming back for sits higher and smells sharper: lemon trees on stone terraces, the Capuchin hill … Read more

Most people treat Genoa as a transfer: cruise pier, aquarium selfie, train south to the pastel villages. That is a mistake. The real city starts when you leave the waterfront boardwalk and step into the centro storico, where the caruggi (those narrow stone alleys) run like canyons between tall houses, and the smell of chickpea … Read more

Rapallo does not try to be Portofino. It is bigger, a little louder, and more useful. Trains stop here without much fuss. People buy shoes on Thursday. The gulf opens wide enough that you can stand on the lungomare and see three towns at once without feeling you paid for a postcard. What keeps me … Read more