Down the King of Aragon’s Stairs in Bonifacio

Most people meet Bonifacio from the water: a white town jammed onto a limestone blade, houses leaning over empty air, Sardinia a blue smear on a clear day. That cliff silhouette is why ferries slow and phones come out. The version I keep starts lower and harder on the legs. A steep cut of steps … Read more

Along the Lauch Through Petite Venise in Colmar

Vintage postcard-style collage of Colmar’s landmarks with banners naming La Petite Venise, Maison Pfister, Maison des Têtes, Collégiale Saint-Martin, Koïfhus, Marché Couvert and Place de l’Ancienne Douane, plus decorative flowers and 'Greetings from Colmar, France' text.

I start in Colmar where the Lauch narrows between half-timbered houses and flower boxes lean over the water. Petite Venise is the name on every map, but the stretch itself is quieter if you arrive before the boat queues form: a working canal that once fed tanners and fishmongers, still lined with shutters and laundry … Read more