Inlaid Wood Inside Federico’s Studiolo, Urbino

Vintage Urbino postcard collage highlighting five landmarks: Palazzo Ducale at center with surrounding Duomo, Fortezza Albornoz, Casa Raffaello, and Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista in side panels.

Urbino sits on two hills in the Marche and still feels like a small court that never quite got demoted. Buses dump you at Piazza Mercatale below the walls. From there you take the elevator up toward Corso Garibaldi, or you walk the grade and arrive slightly winded, which is honest. The brick is pink-brown. … Read more

Under the Brick Curve of the Sferisterio, Macerata

Vintage travel poster for Macerata, Italy, featuring six landmarks: Lo Sferisterio, Piazza della Libertà, Torre Civica, Loggia dei Mercanti, Duomo di San Giuliano, and Palazzo Buonaccorsi.

Macerata sits inland on a hill in the Marche, far enough from the Adriatic that the air smells like brick dust and coffee rather than salt. People pass through for the summer opera or a university errand and leave thinking they have seen the place. Usually they saw one building and a parking lot. The … Read more

Mayonnaise on the Pizza Rossini, Pesaro

Vintage Pesaro postcard showing landmarks: Piazza del Popolo fountain and town square, a central banner says Greetings from Pesaro, Italy.

Pesaro sits on the northern Marche coast where the Foglia finds the Adriatic and the hills of San Bartolo rise north of the beach hotels. People still call it Rossini’s town, which is fair. He was born here. But the first local argument you meet is usually on a plate. Pizza Rossini: tomato, mozzarella, a … Read more