Sardinia

The ground floor smells of salt before you see the ice. Under the vaults of Mercato San Benedetto, crates of fish still drip from the night boat. Women behind the counters call out prices without looking up from their knives. I come for that early hour more than for the Bastione views that end up … Read more

Most of Sardinia greets you with granite, cork forest, or a castle on a rock. Arborea does none of that. You peel off the SS 131 near Marrubiu, and the roads go straight. Canals run beside the fields. Low houses sit in green rectangles. After a week of hill towns and cliffs, the flat can … Read more